Skip to content

Commit

Permalink
foundation lists pass
Browse files Browse the repository at this point in the history
  • Loading branch information
dangnelson committed Oct 4, 2018
1 parent 86f5552 commit 31c7904
Show file tree
Hide file tree
Showing 2 changed files with 68 additions and 62 deletions.
110 changes: 58 additions & 52 deletions 01 Foundation/Foundation.md
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -34,19 +34,23 @@ Use the *Shovel(s)* and *Wheel Barrow* to remove any grass, shrubs or debris fro

### Level Ground

Attach *String Line Levels* to the strings on all four sides. Level starting roughly an inch above the ground at the highest point. Use this as a guide to remove top soil until the ground is leveled. Tamp the toil with a *Tamper*.
Attach *String Line Levels* to the strings on all four sides. Level starting roughly an inch above the ground at the highest point. Use this as a guide to remove top soil until the ground is leveled. Tamp the soil with a *Tamper*.

### Retaining Wall (avoid)

We built on an incline, and ended up with a soil ledge on one side, and had to build a retaining wall to avoid erosion. We also dug a trench for a french drain on the inside of the retaining wall and filled it with crushed stone. This increased our build time, and building on an incline is not recommended for that reason.
We built on an incline, and ended up with a soil ledge on one side, and had to build a retaining wall to avoid erosion. We also dug a trench for a french drain is on the inside of the retaining wall and filled it with crushed stone. This increased our build time, and building on an incline is not recommended for that reason.

### Dig Pier Holes

Rent an 8-12" *Auger* and use the *Digging Tools* if you have rocky soil.
Rent an 8-12" *Auger* and use the *Digging Bar* and *Small Post Hole Digger* if you have rocky soil.

Dig out the bottom of the hole so it flares to create a footing. This helps resist frost heave and lift from strong winds.

The depth will need to change based on the region you build in. Correct the Frost Depth based on your local code.
The depth will need to change based on the region you build in. Correct the frost depth based on your local code.

### Gravel

Add about an inch of *All Purpose Gravel* to the bottom of every hole.

## 2. Piers

Expand All @@ -59,9 +63,9 @@ In retrospect we should have added rebar into the footings for additional streng
### Pour Piers
Cut the *Concrete Tube Forms* to size using a *Hand Saw*.

Nail the sides of the *Cardboard Concrete Form Tubes* to the center of 2 2x4s. The tube should hang about 12 inches up from the bottom of the footing.
Attach *3.5 Exterior Nails* to the sides of the *Cardboard Concrete Form Tubes* to the center of *2 2x4s*. The tube should hang about 12 inches up from the bottom of the footing.

Make sure to wear a *Respiratory Mask* to avoid breathing in concrete dust, and *Cleaning Gloves* to protect your skin for this next step.
Make sure to wear a *N95 Dust Mask* to avoid breathing in concrete dust, and *Cleaning Gloves* to protect your skin for this next step.

Slowly pour *Water* over 1 *Bag of Concrete* in the *Wheel Barrow*. Mix the contents using the *Garden Hoe* and add water gradually until you have a thick consistency.

Expand All @@ -77,7 +81,7 @@ Wait a day and remove the *Cardboard Concrete Form Tubes* from around the piers.

### Cut & Insert Piers

Cut the *Treated 4x4x8s* to size and insert them into the *Galvanized Post Bases*. Drill the bolt holes out using a *Battery Powered Drill* and a *1/2" diameter 6" long brad point bit*. Insert the *6" Galvanized Carriage Bolts* and tighten the *1/2" Galvanized Washers* and *1/2" Galvanized Nuts* with a *1/2" Socket Wrench*.
Mark the *Treated 4x4x8s* to size using a *Carpenter's Pencil* and *Square* then cut using a *Battery Powered Hand-held Circular Saw* and insert them into the *Galvanized Post Bases*. Drill the bolt holes out using a *Battery Powered Drill* and a *1/2" diameter 6" long brad point bit*. Insert the *1/2" x 6" Galvanized Carriage Bolts* and tighten the *1/2" Galvanized Washers* and *1/2" Galvanized Nuts* with a *1/2" Socket Wrench*.

### Treated wood

Expand All @@ -89,29 +93,31 @@ We’re open to alternatives to improve this design.

![](images/A04.svg)

Place the end plates temporarily on two *Concrete Deck Blocks* and use *Shims* to level them until they all line up with each other at the corners.
Place 2 *Treated 2x6x12s* and 2 *Treated 2x6x16s* as end plates on *Concrete Deck Blocks* and use *Shims* and a *4' Level* to level them until they all line up with each other at the corners.

Drill the holes for the bolts. Then bolt the 4x4s to the end plates.
Drill the holes for the bolts and bolt the 4x4s to the end plates like you did the piers.

## 5. Deck Blocks

![](images/A05.svg)

Mark the longer end plates for the floor joists.

Roughly place the *concrete blocks* in place by inserting the floor joists into them, and aligning the joists roughly with the marks.
Cut the remaining *2x6x12s* to 11' 9" to use as floor joists.

Roughly place the *Concrete Blocks* in place by inserting the floor joists into them, and aligning the joists roughly with the marks.

After each board is lined up, remove an inch of soil under each block and add *All Purpose Gravel* under each block until the joists are level with the side beams.

Carefully mark the unattached floor joists with numbers so you can place them back in the same place later. Then remove them for the next step.
Carefully mark the unattached floor joists with numbers using a *Carpenter's Pencil* so you can place them back in the same place later. Then remove them for the next step.

[![](blueprints/A04.svg)](https://github.com/dangnelson/WATERBEAR-Shed/blob/master/01%20Foundation/blueprints/A04.pdf)

## 6. Gravel

![](images/A06.svg)

Use the *Shovel* and the *Hoe* to spread a layer of gravel around the blocks to improve drainage.
Use the *Shovel* and the *Hoe* to spread a layer of *#57 Drainage Gravel* around the blocks to improve drainage.

## 7. Floor Joists

Expand All @@ -131,7 +137,7 @@ Hammer 2 *3.5" Exterior Nails* into each end of each joist.

![](images/A08.svg)

Load the *Nail Gun* with *2.5" Nails*.
Load the *Battery Powered Nail Gun* with *2.5" Interior Nails*.

Lay *5/8" (19/32) Plywood* down on top of the joists end to end, nailing the corners as you go. `IRC TABLE R503.1`

Expand All @@ -153,67 +159,67 @@ Nail the plywood in using the following nailing schedule:

## Cover until next step

Place a
Bricks on tarp
Place *Bricks* on *Tarp*

## Supplies List

### New Tools
## Tools

|Item | # | Cost
|---|---|---|
| [Hammer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer) | 1 | 4.98
| [Hand Saw](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw) | 1 | 9.94
| [Hoe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoe_(tool)) | 1 | 15.97
| [Hand-held Circular Saw](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_saw) (Battery Powered)| 1 | 279.00
| Circular Saw Rip [Fence](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fence_(woodworking)) | 1 |
| [Nail Gun](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_gun) (Battery Powered)| 1 | 399.00
| 100' String Line | 1 | 2.98
| [String Line Levels](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirit_level#Line_level) | 4 | 5.86
| Sun Surveyor App
| Marking Spray Paint | 1 | 5.27
| 25'+ [Tape Measure](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tape_measure) | 1 | 9.88
| 2 ft Wooden [Stakes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Survey_stakes) | 4 | 4.97
| 25' or greater [Tape Measure](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tape_measure) | 1 | 9.88
| 100' String Line | 1 | 2.98
| [String Line Levels](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirit_level#Line_level) | 4 | 5.86
| [Plumb Chalk Line](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalk_line) | 1 | 5.97
| [8" Auger](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auger_(drill)) | Rent | 50.00
| [Small Post Hole Digger](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post_hole_digger) | 1 | 24.97
| [Digging Bar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digging_bar) | 1 | 31.97
| [Hammer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer) | 1 | 4.98
| [Digging Shovel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shovel) | 1 | 5.98
| [Margin Trowel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trowel) | 1 | 5.77
| [Wheel Barrow](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheelbarrow) | 1 | 49.97
| [Tamper](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamp) | 1 | 26.98
| [8" Auger](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auger_(drill)) | Rent | 50.00
| [Digging Bar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digging_bar) | 1 | 31.97
| [Small Post Hole Digger](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post_hole_digger) | 1 | 24.97
| [Hand Saw](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw) | 1 | 9.94
| [N95 Dust Mask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust_mask) | 2 | 7.47
| Pair of Cleaning Gloves | 1 | 1.98
| Cleaning Gloves | 1 | 1.98
| [Hoe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoe_(tool)) | 1 | 15.97
| [Margin Trowel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trowel) | 1 | 5.77
| Carpenter's Pencil
| Square
| Gloves
| Battery Powered [Hand-held Circular Saw](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_saw) | 1 | 279.00
| Battery Powered Drill | 1| 159.00
| Bit for Drilling Bolt holes | 1 | 9.97
| 1/2" diameter 6" long brad point bit | 1 | 9.97
| 1/2" Socket Wrench | 1 | 26.19
| [Tamper](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamp) | 1 | 26.98
| Battery-Powered Impact Driver | 1
| 1/2" diameter 6" long brad point bit
| 4' Level |
| Battery Powered [Nail Gun](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_gun)| 1 | 399.00
| [Plumb Chalk Line](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalk_line) | 1 | 5.97
|**Estimated Total**||**1144.07**

### Materials
## Materials

|Item | # | Note | Cost
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete Deck Blocks | 28 | Heavy | 193.20
| 1 Cubic Yard of #57 Drainage Gravel| | Heavy | 29.00 |
| 1/4 Cubic Yard of Compactable Fill / Top Soil | | | 9.42
| All Purpose Gravel 50 lb Bag | 6 | Heavy | 24.90
| Concrete 80 lb bags | 8 | Heavy, Cost Varies | 39.76
| 8" x 4' Concrete Tube Forms | 2 | Cost Varies | 19.00
| All Purpose Gravel 50 lb Bag | 6? | Heavy | 24.90
| 1/2" x 2' Rebar | 4 | Cost Varies | 7.88
| 3.5" Exterior Nails | 60 | | 4.97
| 8" x 4' Concrete Tube Forms | 2 | Cost Varies | 19.00
| 2x4x8 | 2 | | 6.22
| 5 gallon Water Jugs or Water Source | 3 | Cost Varies |50.82
| Concrete 80 lb bags | 8 | Heavy, Cost Varies | 39.76
| 4" x 4" Galvanized Post Base | 4 | | 45.48
| 2x4x8 | 2 | | 6.22
| 1/4 Cubic Yard of Compactable Fill / Top Soil | | | 9.42
| Treated 4x4x8 | 1 | | 7.98
| 1/2" x 6" Galvanized Carriage Bolts | 16 ||40.48
| 1/2" Galvanized Washers | 16 | | 5.28
| 1/2" Galvanized Nuts | 16 | | 6.08
| Treated 2x6x12 | 14 | Large | 124.32
| Treated 2x6x16 | 2 | Large | 23.14
| Treated 4x4x8 | 1 | | 7.98
| 4x8 5/8" (19/32) Plywood | 7 || 141.19
| 2.5" Interior Nails for Nail Gun | 384 | | 37.97
| 3.5" Exterior Nails | 60 | | 4.97
| Concrete Deck Blocks | 28 | Heavy | 193.20
| Shims | | | 4.95
| 1/2" x 6" Galvanized Carriage Bolt | 16 ||40.48
| 1/2" Galvanized Washer | 16 | | 5.28
| 1/2" Galvanized Nut | 16 | | 6.08
| 1 Cubic Yard of #57 Drainage Gravel| | Heavy | 29.00 | | 2.5" Interior Nails for Nail Gun | 384 | | 37.97
| 4x8 5/8" (19/32) Plywood | 7 || 141.19
| Bricks
| Tarp
|**Estimated Total**|||**822.04**

Total cost does not include Tax or Delivery fees. Materials noted as "Cost Varies" depends on the frost depth for your location.
20 changes: 10 additions & 10 deletions 02 Wall Structure/Wall Structure.md
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
![](images/B01.svg)

### Build Walls
Build the west back wall (Blueprint B.01A) first using the shed floor as a surface. Cut studs to size using a *Battery Powered Circular Saw*. Mark the top and bottom plates using a *Carpenter's Pencil* and *Measuring Tape* and nail them together using a *Battery Powered Nail Gun*. Use a *Hammer* to finish driving any nails that stick out. Stand up the wall and nail spare 2x4s at about a 45 degree angle on either side to the end of the floor joists while leveling using a *48 Inch Level*. Next stand up the north/south walls (Blueprint B.01B), and finally the other east/west wall (Blueprint B.01C).
Build the west back wall (Blueprint B.01A) first using the shed floor as a surface. Cut studs to size using a *Battery Powered Circular Saw*. Mark the top and bottom plates using a *Carpenter's Pencil* and *Measuring Tape* and nail them together using a *Battery Powered Nail Gun*. Use a *Hammer* to finish driving any nails that stick out. Stand up the wall and nail spare *2x4s* at about a 45 degree angle on either side to the end of the floor joists while leveling using a *48 Inch Level*. Next stand up the north/south walls (Blueprint B.01B), and finally the other east/west wall (Blueprint B.01C).

[![Blueprint B01A](blueprints/B01A.svg)](blueprints/B01a.pdf)

Expand All @@ -24,21 +24,21 @@ Build the west back wall (Blueprint B.01A) first using the shed floor as a surfa

### Headers `IRC TABLE R502.5(1)`

Sandwich 1/2" plywood between 2 2x12s and attach them Face Nail to build the headers which support the wall above the doorways before installing them in the wall.
Sandwich *1/2" Plywood* between *2 2x12s* and attach them *Face Nail* to build the headers which support the wall above the doorways before installing them in the wall.

[![](blueprints/B01C.svg)](https://github.com/dangnelson/WATERBEAR-Shed/blob/master/02%20Wall%20Structure/blueprints/B01c.pdf)

#### Header Fastening

| Placement | Size | Frequency | Occurrences
|---|---|---|---|
| Header with 1/2" plywood spacer | 3.5" | 16" on center along each edge | 260" length (18 Nails)
| Header with *1/2" Plywood Spacer* | 3.5" | 16" on center along each edge | 260" length (18 Nails)

## 2. Top Plate

![](images/B02.svg)

Walls must be capped with a second top plate, offset at least 24 inches at joints (IRC 602.3.2). Overlap the corners so they overlap the wall joints. Attach them by nailing Face Nail downwards stepping on a *8 ft Step Ladder*.
Walls must be capped with a second top plate, offset at least 24 inches at joints (IRC 602.3.2). Overlap the corners so they overlap the wall joints. Attach them by nailing *Face Nail* downwards stepping on a *8 ft Step Ladder*.

[![](blueprints/B02.svg)](https://github.com/dangnelson/WATERBEAR-Shed/blob/master/02%20Wall%20Structure/blueprints/B02.pdf)

Expand Down Expand Up @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ Hammer a nail lightly in between each panel. This will create an 1/8 inch gap be

[![](blueprints/B04.svg)](https://github.com/dangnelson/WATERBEAR-Shed/blob/master/02%20Wall%20Structure/blueprints/B04.pdf)

2x6 joists should just about line up with the wall studs, 16 inches on center `IRC Table 802.4(1)`. Mark the end plates first, then prop up the joists over the ceiling span. Be careful not to stand in the shed while you do this in case the joists fall. Frame enough to form a box and toe nail the box into place. This should give you enough structure to add in the remaining joists.
*2x6 Joists* should just about line up with the wall studs, 16 inches on center `IRC Table 802.4(1)`. Mark the end plates first, then prop up the joists over the ceiling span. Be careful not to stand in the shed while you do this in case the joists fall. Frame enough to form a box and toe nail the box into place. This should give you enough structure to add in the remaining joists.

### Joist Fastening `IRC Table 602.3(1)`
No blocking is needed because the distance between the raised top plate and the top of the parallel rafter is 7 & 1/8". (IRC 602.10.6.2). The ends of each joist must touch the top plate for at least 1.5 inches (IRC 802.6).
Expand All @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ No blocking is needed because the distance between the raised top plate and the

[![](blueprints/B05.svg)](https://github.com/dangnelson/WATERBEAR-Shed/blob/master/02%20Wall%20Structure/blueprints/B05.pdf)

Lay one sheet up first and secure it to the joists enough to be able to get on top of it and finish fastening. Have one person pass sheets up while the other fastens. For the access hole lay the sheet on before fastening and mark the edges of the hole from the bottom. Measure out 3/4" from your line to increase the panel size and cut it out with the circular saw.
Lay one sheet up first and secure it to the joists enough to be able to get on top of it and finish fastening. Have one person pass sheets up while the other fastens. For the access hole lay the sheet on before fastening and mark the edges of the hole from the bottom. Measure out 3/4" from your line to increase the panel size and cut it out with the *Circular Saw*.

### Sheathing Fastening

Expand Down Expand Up @@ -137,13 +137,13 @@ You can measure and precut the boards before burning & oiling them or you can cu

![](images/B07.svg)

Cut a roll of flashing for the top and bottom of the doorway. Notch it so it can fold into place and overlap the edges. Place a board over it and hammer the board to shape the flashing.
Cut a roll of *Flashing* for the top and bottom of the doorway. Notch it so it can fold into place and overlap the edges. Place a board over it and hammer the board to shape the flashing.

## 8. Doors

![](images/B08.svg)

Build the doors and insert them into place using *Shims* to create some spacing to make sure they fit and hold them in place. Insert the Hinges into the gap and mark where they should go on the jam and the door. also mark the hinge for distance it should extend out. Make sure the hinge pin extends past the jam so the doors can open 180 degrees.
Build the doors and insert them into place using *Shims* to create some spacing to make sure they fit and hold them in place. Insert the *Hinges* into the gap and mark where they should go on the jam and the door. also mark the hinge for distance it should extend out. Make sure the hinge pin extends past the jam so the doors can open 180 degrees.

This door installation will be temporary to make the shed lockable until you can finish the siding.

Expand All @@ -155,11 +155,11 @@ Install 1x2 door stop trim on the inside of the doors to keep them from swinging

![](images/B09.svg)

Install from the bottom up overlap horizontally 4 at least inches and vertically 2 inches. Use a *Hammer Tacker* to get the paper up and hammer in *Metal Cap Nails* every 6 feet to keep the paper from blowing off. Install spare felt paper on the doors to protect them temporarily until the siding can be installed over top.
Install from the bottom up overlap horizontally 4 at least inches and vertically 2 inches. Use a *Hammer Tacker* to get the paper up and hammer in *Metal Cap Nails* every 6 feet to keep the paper from blowing off. Install spare *Felt Paper* on the doors to protect them temporarily until the siding can be installed over top.

## Tie-Downs

Using a *Battery-Powered Drill* drill through the bottom plates and into the floor joists using a *1/2" Drill Bit* a few inches from the end of each cut and once in the center of the western wall. Insert a *1/2" x 4" Galvanized Hex Lag Screw* with a *1/2" Washer* into each hole and tighten using a *3/4" Ratchet Bit* inserted into a *Battery-Powered Impact Driver* with a *1/4" Male Hex to 1/4" Square Drive Adapter*. This will help keep the framing from pulling off in high-winds.
Using a *Battery-Powered Drill*, drill through the bottom plates and into the floor joists using a *1/2" Drill Bit* a few inches from the end of each cut and once in the center of the western wall. Insert a *1/2" x 4" Galvanized Hex Lag Screw* with a *1/2" Washer* into each hole and tighten using a *3/4" Ratchet Bit* inserted into a *Battery-Powered Impact Driver* with a *1/4" Male Hex to 1/4" Square Drive Adapter*. This will help keep the framing from pulling off in high-winds.

## Cover until next step

Expand Down

0 comments on commit 31c7904

Please sign in to comment.